I'll confess: Inopia was a Gwyneth Paltrow pick, from her e-newsletter Goop. This is a lot to admit to, as we hated every episode of On the Road Again we watched (as did Anthony Bourdain, apparently): the incessant yapping just didn't fulfill the potential that you would have expected from Batali and Bittman on board.
Her Barcelona picks, however, came out on during our first day in the city, which was enough to pique our curiosity. Inopia was one of her top picks for tapas (we couldn't make it to the local pick, Commerc 24), and its location - away from the general tourist areas, east of El Raval in the Sant Antoni/Poble Sec area - was appealing. The fact that it is run by Ferran Adria's brother, Albert, didn't hurt either.
We had heard that it was impossible to get into Inopia if you didn't show up around the 7/7:30 opening time. We weren't sure whether to believe the hype or not, as 7/7:30 is insanely early for dinner in Spain; most people don't seem to eat until closer to 10. It was a good thing we didn't chance it, though, because the place gets packed as soon as its steel gate opens.
As with most places, Inopia has its menu, and then a slew of daily features written on the chalkboard. Many places have English menus, but Inopia does not. We relied pretty heavily on our server's basic English, and he did a pretty good job of explaining the choices to us whenever he could, though the high volumes meant we were guessing most of them. There are also pictures of popular dishes hanging from the ceiling, and little chalk pictures on the chalkboard. To round out the decor, there are guest-book tags in Jiffy marker all over the tiled wall, with pictures of famed celeb chefs (or just plain celebs) posted as well. These ones are of Ferran Adria, and Gael Garcia Bernal/Alejandro Gonzalez Inarittu/Javier Bardem; pictures of Heston Blumenthal, Wylie Dufresne, etc. flanked them, with copies of an El Bulli book were perched above.
As I mentioned in the last post, we always ordered the tomato/garlic bread, mostly to balance out the other tapas dishes.
For instance, the bread goes pretty hand in hand with a plate of nothing but anchovies in oil. As many writers have noted, Spain is one of those odd places where canned or preserved foods are often as appreciated as fresh food, and anchovies are a great example. Inopia had three or four different types of anchovies to choose from, and we picked the higher grade. This meant it was a bit less salty, and less earthy tasting than most anchovies I've had.
We also picked white asparagus which you could buy in jars from Inopia - it seemed like they canned/preserved them themselves. I've seen white asparagus plenty of times here, but never quite as thick as the ones we had in Spain. Inopia served them with a light hollandaise sauce, and they were a great clean counterpoint to the anchovies.
Bacalao is another preserved mainstay. It's basically a salted cod fish, but in many variations. We had bacalao salad with tomato, and as with everything, it was swimming in olive oil... but in a good way.
Croquettes are a universal item on tapas menus as well. We picked a standard, stuff with potato and Iberian ham. These were among the better croquettes we had, where the outer shell was thin and delicate.
The other potato dish that seemed ubiquitous at every table was the patatas bravas, which is potato chunks, cut like larger hash browns chunks, served with a slightly spicy tomato sauce and mayo. I don't really get the appeal, but I suppose it's like ordering fries as a side.
As one of the many daily specials, Inopia featured ribs. Instead of your standard pub food short ribs, though, these were rabbit. They were great: gently fried, moist, and light enough to eat in large quantities. Served with a mayo/horseradish type sauce.
Our server really pushed this cheese dish, and for good reason: the cheese, torta CaƱarejal, is insanely creamy, and a gold medal winner at the international cheese competition. The closest thing I could compare it to is obviously brie, but this was much creamier, and served lukewarm instead of the usual oven-hot baked brie. An excellent finish.
While not at Inopia, Albert Adria is the pastry chef at El Bulli. There didn't seem to be anything remotely close to that end of cooking at Inopia - not that I'm complaining - but here's a video of Albert Adria doing his thing, in support of his recent book, Natura (also featured in one of the Bourdain episodes):
We spent our first dinner in Barcelona at Taller de Tapas, which was tucked away in one of the many squares off Las Ramblas, one of the main pedestrian drags that caters to tourists and locals alike. The place is a real maze, so we picked what looked like the least touristy place. As we found it later, Taller de Tapas is a chain of tapas restaurants, with numerous locations spread around town.
The first thing that we had to order was a plate of jamon. It's hard to critique one plate of jamon to another: not much bad one can say about perfection.
The other thing that jumped out was razor clams. I used to eat alot of these in Texas, but for whatever reason, I've never seen them on a menu in Canada (apparently you can get them at T&T or at Chinese restaurants depending on the season). This is the first of a recurring theme. If you've never had them before, they taste sort of in between clams and geoduck. Here they were just steamed with a bit of olive oil, which I like: most seafood shouldn't be messed around with too much.
This was a plate of tomato/garlic toast, which seemed like a pretty common side order at most places. While the tomato and garlic were pressed into the bread here, many places just give you a plate of toast, a sliced tomato and a bit of mayo/aioli. This version was one of our faves. Again, simple without too much fuss.
Grilled sardines are always great. They have a sardine fest in Vancouver once a year; this seems to happen 365 days of the year in Spain.
There's not much to say about this paella. It had two clams, two mussels, two crayfish, and way too much lemon juice. I wasn't overly crazy about it, especially considering the paella we had later in Barceloneta, the beach/waterfront part of the city.
I would have to be completely socially isolated not to notice the ongoing early/mid 90s nostalgia. Yesterday I saw someone wearing actual Cross Colors pants. I didn't realize that they still made those. I am assuming (and hoping) that the summer heat will lead to an obvious delay in Eight Ball jackets coming back.
On that note, I am thoroughly enjoying this Royksopp/Robyn track. I do remember making fun of someone in the mid-90s for their fondness of Robyn, and stand happily corrected.
Royksopp (w/ Robyn) - "The Girl and the Robot"
I am also quite enamoured with the production on this track: Blaktroniks - "Angel"
Every now and then I completely obsess over De La Soul's "Stakes is High," which, in my mind, is one of the better hip hop songs through the genre's history - "Every word I say should be a hip hop quotable". This cycle stated anew when the Mos Def cover starting circulating the web.
One of the obvious highlights of the track is Dilla's production, and it's reliance on Ahmad Jamal's "Swahililand." Trying to find the best version of "Swahililand," however, is always a fun task. As far as I can tell, Jamal recorded different versions over and over again. It doesn't help matters much that much of Jamal's output is still out of print.
The easiest place to start is one of the many Dilla original source/sample comps: "Swahililand" (from some online Dilla tribute)
My other favorite version is on the out of print Jamal Plays Jamal, which isn't too hard to find online:
At first I was going to write about the ongoing mindboggle that is known as the principal of Keswick High - or, more accurately, why no officials have come out to speak on the issue or reprimand the school officials - but I'd rather expend that energy on listening to version after version of Ahmad Jamal's "Swahililand," which is what I ended up doing.
There's an endless number of different versions of the song - and that's just out of Jamal's own output - but from what I can tell, the one from the out-of-print Jamal Plays Jamal seems to be IT. Thus:
Ahmad Jamal - "Swahililand"
And, for no real reason, the best cover of any song I have ever heard:
Lemme tells ya: Langley is a far drive away. Like, a world. But let's recap: 1. We did not get shot at by a gang member. 2. We did visit a breeder that had framed memorabilia from Graceland. 3. Said breeder left her teenage daughter to explain their puppies. I have never seen so much makeup on one teenager. OR: Every year, the more out of touch I get. 4. We went to a puppy store that was an old converted pool hall. 5. We took two trips to said store. 6. Bun came home this past weekend.
Lowrell - "Mellow Mellow Right On"
Badu - "Soldier"
Endnote: Last Vancouver girl on PR Canada - 90s parachute flared pants, avant-garde? Really? (Iman, voice of reason)
1. Oh, internet and this age of EVERYTHING NOW: my hard drive has committed to your excess. For instance:
Public Enemy - "Fight the Power (Flavor Flav meets Spike Lee)": why was a B side mix of this song done with Flav basically talking out of his ass with Spike Lee? Check out the beef about George Michael midway through.
Public Enemy w/ the Roots - "Bring Da Noise" (from the Jimmy Fallon show): Black Thought does an okay Chuck D, but a not-so-good Flav. Did anyone else think this didn't quite live up to the hype?
2. While we're at it, why are there so many different versions of De La Soul's "Saturdays" I've never heard, and so little time to listen to them? (Not to mention attention span). Witness:
De La Soul - "A Rollerskating Jam Named Saturdays (Disco Fever mix)" - features a longer lead in, a few more breaks near the end
Same: "Ladies Nite Decision mix" - features more ladies, a new bassline fatter than deep fried guacamole (google that shit), and (impossibly) even more samples
And more: "What Yo Life Can Really Be mix" - features Dres from Black Sheep, more snaps, a Woody Woodpecker sample, and way less of the "Evil Vibrations" sample
3. The New Yorker article on Lily Allen mentioned that Nellee Hooper used to babysit her. WELL. Eric B & Rakim - "Move the Crowd" (Wild Bunch remix)
Soul II Soul - "Back to Life" (12" mix; which eliminates the acappella intro, thus enabling one to get the groove on seconds earlier)
ENDNOTE (Boosterism edition): Past: Gene Poole, will you also be posting my better hearing capabilities from the mid-90s? 'Cause I needs that shit back. Present: what's with the two Vancouver bitches on Project Runway Canada? Fo' shame. (Also: Obakki, a credential? Really?)
1. As tonight confirmed, no one has inspired more bad covers than Mike. But seriously: if you could choose any Mike song to cover, would the Jackson 5 cover of "Rockin' Robin" really be it? Really?
2. Also, when did "Jason Mraz-y" become something desirable? Alls I can smell is patchouli, dudes with neckbeads. RETURN.
3. As a matter of coincidence, this mix from the Rub is an excellent Mike primer: the MJ Mix. A particularly high set of props for going with lesser known songs.
4. If you're still not convinced, check the demo of "Don't Stop":
5. Of the gazimillion remixes of Mike, most are absolute failures. Mike does not need arbitrary house beats, breaks, rhymes, etc. Mike did not need that Akon travesty. The more successful ones try not to tinker too much. My favorites:
Jacko 5 - "We're Almost There (DJ Spinna remix)"
Mike - "I Can't Help It (Todd Terje rekut)"
6. Also: Mike, Neptunes - you talkin? Please?
7. I still stand by this (the song, not the video); my DJ friends did not (I'm looking at you, Marco).
1. If Big Love has taught me anything, it is not to pick flowers on the hillside for one's ponytail (or, indeed, to doublecheck that one's ponytail is not jammed in the door).
2. If Watchmen (movie edition) has taught me anything, it is never to have sex to "Hallelujah." If Watchmen (book edition) has taught me anything, it is to never, ever use Bob Dylan as a running quote (also: owls, not as cool as originally thought).
3. There are too many food blogs that tell me nothing.
4. Calgary Cassettes, a plug: the archivalist effort is noble and commendable; the descriptions, chuckle-worthy; the nostalgia good for a day or two. But the comments left by visitors? Bejeezus, quit the 90s.
5. The drums on this track, bonkers: Bat for Lashes - "Glass"
6. OH, WAIT: THE 90's! Boo Radleys - "Wish I Was Skinny"